Species name: Centropyge Loricula
Common names: Flame Angelfish
Family: Pomacanthidae (Angelfishes)
Order: Perciformes (perch-likes)
Class: Actinopterygii (ray-finned fishes)
Maximum Length: 5.9 in.
Minimum tank size: 25 gal.
Hardiness: Easy to Medium

Aggressiveness: Medium. Can be aggressive toward members of its own genus, as well as toward fish with similar shape or behavior. It should be the last fish to introduce into a peaceful community.

Reef Compatibility: May nip at LPS coral, zoanthid and tridacnid clam mantles.

Diet: Unlike most anglefish, the Flame Angel is not as dependent on sponge for nutrition. Half of its diet should be algae and vegetables. Should be feed with spirulina, marine algae, mysid shrimp and meaty food. Feed 3 times a day. The presence of live rock in the tank will allow self-feeding on demand. Without sufficient algae to eat, the Flame Angel will lose its color, weight and interest in feeding.

Additional information: In the wild, this awesome dwarf angelfish is found in the reef and clear lagoons of Hawaii, Society Islands, Australia, New Guinea and Philippines at depth of 50 meters. It is one of the most beautiful angelfish that can be acquired by a hobbyist. It has a striking red or orange body with vertical black bars in the mid section. Their markings don’t change with age so chose one that you like. Under stress the flame anglefish is highly susceptible to Brooklynella and Oodinium (Amyloodinium) infections. To reduce stress, the aquarium should contain live rock with lots of broken rubble with small caves only the angels can get in.

The ideal tank should have a good water current to play in, a ph of 8.1 – 8.4, temperature between 75°F and 80°F (25°C – 27°C), sg 1.020 – 1.025, dkh 8 – 12°,

Visit AQUARIUM LIFE for more information about fish and coral. Photo and video related to this article also available on Aquarium Life

Scientific name: Zanclus Cornutus
Common names: Moorish Idol
Maximum Length: 7 in (4 in in aquarium).
Minimum tank size: 100 gal.
Hardiness: Difficult (For Experts only)
Aggressiveness: Peaceful
Reef Compatibility: Some individual will nip at LPS and soft coral polyps.
Diet: Omnivore.


Needs a varied diet including shrimp, squid, clam, mysid shrimp, live brine shrimp, worms, spirulina, algae and vegetable.

Only member of the family Zanclidae, the Moorish Idol is a close relative of the Tangs or Surgeonfish and lives in school along the reef of the Indo-Pacific and Red Sea. It is one of the most beautiful fish but unfortunately one of the most difficult to keep in aquarium. Long term survivability in aquariums is rare (2 years is good).

Ideal aquarium condition should be as follows: 78-80º F with a pH between 8.1 and 8.4 and a sg of 1.022 and plenty of light. Nitrates, nitrites and ammonia need to be almost zero. It’s recommended they be kept in small groups of 3 to 5 in a large tank with enough room to swim and hiding areas.

The Moorish Idol is difficult to feed. Many specimens will simply refuse to eat in aquarium and this is one of the main reason why they are so difficult to keep. They are bottom feeders and graze on marine algae and sponges. Having plenty of live rock will provide grazing opportunities in between meals. They need a varied died of small live foods mysid shrimp, brine shrimp, worms and sponge. Diet should be supplement with small shrimp, squid, clam, spirulina, algae and vegetable. They should be fed before you take them home from the store to help them survive the stress of being moved and acclimated.

Visit AQUARIUM LIFE for more information about fish and coral. Photo and video related to this article also available on Aquarium Life

Thought I’d jot down what I consider to be the five major sins of a marine aquarist, be that for a reef tank or a fish only tank. They are not in any particular order. The list is not just aimed at beginners to the hobby who are just starting a saltwater aquarium but at aquarists of any level.

Overfeeding

This is self explanatory, and is probably for the most part the domain of the new aquarist. Overfeeding occurs so easily, with those beautiful fish swimming close to the front glass ‘begging’ for food. Overfeeding can occur with the best of intentions, the aquarist being concerned that the fish (and whatever else) are sufficiently fed. Flake food (for example) is concentrated and rich, and pollutes the water very easily. That is the problem, pollution. Eventually, even with routine water changes, water quality reduces. Food is a major source of nitrate and phosphate, both of which are nutrients for nuisance algae.

The solution to overfeeding is simply don’t do it. Observe the livestock. Are they well fed? Remember, they will obtain some food from the reef/decorations. Discipline and observation are the essentials.

Failure to Test the Seawater

It is repeated over and over again by every authority that seawater quality is the number one on the aquarists list of ‘must haves’. The seawater in the aquarium is nearly everything to livestock, they are touching it constantly and rely on it for oxygen and other essentials. Food alone, no matter how high the quality, will not sustain them entirely. As soon as seawater is in the aquarium with livestock, it begins to deteriorate. The rate of deterioration can be slowed down by, in particular, the employment of a high quality protein skimmer. Other aids can be the reef itself (live rock), a deep sand bed, a calcium reactor (some of these inject more than calcium) etc. Nevertheless, seawater quality deterioration is there. The fish only aquarist can do fewer tests than the reef aquarist, but whatever the livestock, testing must be done. Once experience has been gained then testing frequency can be reduced. However, the aquarist must always be aware of the state of the seawater. We would not be happy walking around in and breathing polluted air.

Routine water changes should be completed, using reverse osmosis water for the mix. At the start, 10% (of the systems net gallonage) should be changed. Again, this can be reduced when experience is gained, either by lowering the percentage or increasing the period between changes, and also subject to a light or heavy bio-load. In some cases the percentage may need to be raised to maintain high quality seawater, but if this is the case an examination of filtration, feeding and stocking should be undertaken. Are the filters functioning correctly, and are they sufficiently sized? Is the system overstocked? Are the livestock being overfed?

Failure to Renew the Light Bulbs

By light bulbs I am referring to metal halide bulbs or fluorescent tubes. Lighting needs are more appropriate to the reef aquarist. Lighting is a close second to water quality. A large number of corals need lighting of the correct intensity and spectrum to flourish. Light bulbs reduce in efficiency as time passes. This efficiency loss is because of light intensity reduction and also spectrum shift. The aquarist pays quite an amount for bulbs, so they should at least perform as designed. Changing the bulbs at regular intervals achieves this. Fluorescent tubes should be changed at six months to one year. Halides should be changed at one year to two years. Look at what the manufacturer states, and pay heed to what other aquarists who use the same make and type of bulb say.

If light requiring corals are not flourishing, and seawater quality, including seawater movement, is known to be fault free, consider the lighting. Is there a problem? Do the bulb(s) need changing?

Incompatible Stocking

The aquarist may have very high seawater quality and lighting may be fault free, but some of the fish (for example) may be sickly, feeding poorly and obviously unhappy. When on the wild reef fish have few objectives in their lives, but the ones they do have are :

1. to breed
2. to avoid confrontation
3. to find enough food
4. to avoid becoming food

So if a small fish has gone missing, has a predator (example: a lionfish Pterois volitions) been introduced? Don’t smile, you’d be surprised at what is purchased sometimes on impulse. Is a fish showing ragged fins, poor colours, hovering in a corner, or hiding in rockwork, hardly coming out even to feed? Is it being harassed by bold and aggressive fishes? It is not only inter-fish problems that must be avoided. There are fish that would love to eat that shrimp. There are shrimps that would love to eat that starfish.

Research what is being put into the aquarium. Ensure full compatibility. It is cruel to fail to do this. Nowadays there are many quality books available, and the internet where information is freely available.

Overstocking

Large or small, every aquarium system has its limit in the amount of livestock that can be kept. Keeping too much livestock, in particular fish, increases the bio-load that has to be dealt with. The biological support of the aquarium will increase over time as the bio-load increases – up to a point. Then it is unable to deal with the wastes and disaster is just around the corner. The aquarium inhabitants face death by poisoning. The need for large seawater changes is going to increase. Even then, disaster is close. The aquarist has put all his/her efforts in jeopardy, including seawater quality and even all aquarium life.

Quite apart from the dangers of reduced seawater quality and failing biological support, there is the question of the space needs of the inhabitants themselves. Fish etc need to feel secure in order to prosper and be healthy, which means they need to be able to find a hide hole during the dark hours and in daylight hours have a hole to disappear into. If the aquarium is overstocked holes are going to be at a premium and aggression and fights could ensue. On the wild reef it is life to have a secure hole and the instinctive need does not disappear in an aquarium.

Many aquarists, particularly those with reef aquariums, don’t stock to the theoretical capacity. They under stock knowing that seawater quality will be better, and the corals and fish will be all the better for it. Avoid the temptation of ‘just one more fish’.

No dogs or cats here, but bunnies, guinea pig, and mice could be found here. As well as a nice selection of Jackson Chameleons, with a variety of lovebirds, cockatiels, parakeets, and finches displayed toward the back. Along the side of the shop were aquariums stocked with Freshwater and Saltwater fish.

Also, one of the few shops that had Crown Betta fish available (Yes, I’m still in to that. Even more so as the betta I bought at Pets Plus is content in sticking its head in its marble stones all day like an cartoon ostrich- and no its not dead.). I have to say, even though small, they had the best selection of betta’s I’ve seen thus far. (Although the water they’re contained in could be changed)

GoogleMaps (Map Data ©2008 Tele Atlas) Click Image to view full map.

Located on Ward, behind First Hawaiian Bank. Been re-arranged since I used to visit before I made this blog. Its more open now, which gives the shop a bigger feel. Still carries a good assortment of accessories and I have to say, just when I thought I couldn’t find any more exotic pets, I find ducklings! Good price too, don’t think I can have one though.

Shops also carries a nice variety of freshwater fish (some nice discus fish available), a few saltwater fish, a red-ear slider turtle, Jackson Chameleons, and a few birds. Of which they had pure white and pure yellow parakeets, finches, lovebirds, and canaries.

I’m still in my Betta Fish phase for the office, so I ended up picking up a red crown at a very low price.

GoogleMaps (Map Data ©2008 Tele Atlas) Click Image to view full map.

All kidding aside, it looked like they got a shipment of live stock in. The shop was full as ever and the bird displays, absolutely the best of all the shops I’ve visited so far. Canaries, Parakeets, Conures, Parrots, Finches, Lovebirds, Emerald Pidgeons, Cockatiels, and a full line of consumer bird cages to boot. Complete kits if your interested. (Hint)

Today they also had Bunnies, Guinea Pigs, mix Lab/Pitbull puppies, mixed Shih  Tzu/Silky Terrier puppies, and Chihuahua’s. I still haven’t mentioned the leapord frog, turtles, Jackson Chameleons, good selection of freshwater fish, and saltwater fish. Its worth mentioning that the betta fish were on sale for Valentine’s day at the cheapest price I’ve seen.

GoogleMaps (Map Data ©2008 Tele Atlas) Click Image to view full map.

Good selection of live stock to, although I didn’t see any puppies or kittens. I believe puppies are available Sunday mornings only. Birds available were lovebirds, canaries, parakeets, finches, and cockatiels. They had a large selection of freshwater fish and plants, with a small selection of saltwater fish displayed along side. The only small animals I saw today were a few rabbits that were spending the day napping.

GoogleMaps (Map Data ©2008 Tele Atlas) Click Image to view full map.

Nice shop located behind Ala Moana Shopping Center. Carries a decent supply of accessories and some nice live stock. At the time I visited there were a pair of bunnies, Guinea Pigs, Jackson Chameleons, Tortoise, an assortment of freshwater fish, some saltwater fish, and a few puppies. Breeds in stock were a miniature long-haired Dachshund, a couple of Shih Tzu’s, and a Cavalier Spaniel. Also available were a few birds: Parakeets and Lovebirds.

GoogleMaps (Map Data ©2008 Tele Atlas) Click Image to view full map.

On a side note, I got my picture of the flame angelfish I wanted here, although it swam around too much for me to get the shot I was hoping for. Saltwater fish have the most brilliant colors. A bit of warning, after looking at these fish for a while, fresh water fish seem dull.

GoogleMaps (Map Data ©2008 Tele Atlas) Click Image to view full map.

Warehouse of pet accessories located by the old Costco store. Lots of accessories to choose from. Live stock includes a nice selections of freshwater fish, some saltwater fish, bunnies, tortoise, Jackson Chameleons, Parakeets, and Love birds. I particular liked the flame angelfish which I would have had a picture to show, but the clerk advised me I was not allowed to take any pictures of the store (Go figure).


GoogleMaps (Map Data ©2008 Tele Atlas) Click Image to view full map.